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Friends
of the Earth Organic
Wine Guide
(excerpt
from Organic
Wine Guide by Monty Walden)
Coturri Winery is
another organic Californian domaine with roots in the 1960s. In 1963 it
became the property of Harry Coturri, a businessman from San Francisco.
Coturri had made the family wine with his father and began making wine
from fruit grown in surrounding vineyards with the help of his two sons.
They now run the business - Phil as vineyard manager and Tony as winemaker.
Coturri's own vineyards include Glover Vineyards, Judges Vineyards and
Views Land Vineyards. All are farmed organically but not all are registered
with CCOF. This is a question of politics rather than of practice (i.e.,
because CCOF's main role now is inspection rather than, as it used to
be, a mechanism for information exchange between growers at local level).
The wines, mainly
red, are made in a wooden farm shed with little insulation, For reds the
grapes are picked and sorted by hand before crushing into small one ton
(or smaller) fermentation vats made of the local redwood oak. The juice
ferments on the grape skins with natural yeast. The skins are pressed
in a basket press. The wines are bottled without fining agents, filtration
or the addition of sulphur dioxide preservative (sulphites). The results
are wines so rich in pure tasting fruit that they are unique in the context
of this book. The secret of such natural wine, says Tony Coturri, is to
keep the scale small and to use good grapes (here that means grapes with
good physiology - a ripe colour and firmness to the skins). It means also
maturing the wine in barrels which are kept clean and topped up, and relying
on the ripe tannins and the alcohol present in the wine to act as a natural
preservative. The Coturris advise those who buy their wines on how best
to store them with regard to temperature and humidity levels by precise
instructions on the label.
Comparable wines from
Europe include Chateau Meylet in St Emilion Bordeaux, Domaine Saint-Apollinaire
in the Rhône and Domaine Eugène Meyer in Alsace.
- Alberello Sonoma
Red, Sonoma Valley AVA: dry red, sourced from a vineyard planted in
south-east Sonoma Valley in the 1930s using a head pruned (i.e., low
pruned, or albarello in Italian) system. The varieties were mixed at
planting to leave approximately 40 per cent Zinfandel, 40 per cent Petite
Syrah and 20 per cent Alicante, Carignane, Early Burgundy and Barbera.
The wine contained nearly 16 per cent alcohol in 1997 (550 cases produced).
- Assemblage Millénaire:
dry red Bordeaux-style blend in 1996 of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
- Cabernet Sauvignon,
Sonoma Valley: dry red, in 1996 a 100 per cent varietal wine sourced
from Judges Vineyards, Views Land Vineyards and Glover Vineyards (120
cases).
- Cabernet Sauvignon,
Jessandra Vittoria, Sonoma Valley AVA: dry red. Produced 660 cases in
1996. See below for details of the vineyard.
- Charclonnay, Views
Land Vineyards: dry white, in 1996 fermented in 60 gallon French oak
barrels, bottled unfined, (36 cases).
- Jessandra Vittoria,
Santa Vittoria: dry red sourced from a vineyard established in 1979
by Robert Kamen on rocky, volcanic soil at 1500 feet, within walking
distance of the Monte Rosa Vineyards of Louis Martini. In 1996 comprised
a blend of 90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Sangiovese,
bottled unfined and unfiltered in April 1998 (1,000 cases). In July
1996 a third of the vines were hit by a fire which raged across the
Mayacaymus, necessitating replanting after harvest (these damaged vines
were used for a bottling below).
- Jessandra Vittoria,
'Port': fortified red, made in 1996 from vines which were damaged by
fire, see above (148 cases, 375ml).
- Merlot, Maclise
Vineyards, Sonoma Valley: dry red, first made in 1996, sourced from
3.2 hectares planted in 1993 by Gay Maclise (72 cases)
- Pinot Noir, Jewell
Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain: dry red, sourced from 6.5 hectares of Pinot
Noir, planted in the early 1960s on a nonvigorous rootstock (St George),
dry farmed and managed organically by
Bob Cannard and owned by Barry and Kate Roach. The 1997 vintage produced
220 cases.
- Pinot Noir, Sessions
Cuvée: dry red, in 1997 sourced from California Vineyard Hanzel
from three blocks numbered 54, 57 and 76 (the numbers refer to the year
of planting); named in honour of Bob Sessions, a friend of the Coturris
and a renowned winemaker at Hanzel (300 cases).
- Zinfandel, Chauvet
Vineyards, Sonoma Valley AVA: dry red, sourced from a vineyard owned
since 1972 by Robert and Blythe Carver, and located two miles south
of Glen Ellen on Sonoma Highway 12. It consists of four hectares in
equal sections: East Block which was planted in 1936 by the Canuccio
family (apparently by Using a quarter stick of dynamite in each vine
hole), and West Block, planted in 1976 by the Carver family. In 1997
the harvest was early, hot, and fast as the sugars raced up. The acids
remained high enough however to give the wine its freshness, bringing
alive its sensational thick, pure damson fruit. 1,000 cases made. The
label reads: 'Our grandfather "Nono" would call this wine
one that goes to your head and not your stomach.' It's true even though
the alcohol content is over 16 per cent.
- Zinfandel, Chauvet
Vineyards East Block: dry red, made in 1997 as a separate bottling from
the above (48 cases).
- Zinfandel, Chauvet
Vineyards West Block: dry red, made in 1997 as a separate bottling from
the above (72 cases).
- Zinfandel: also
made with the following designations - Estate Vineyards, Freiberg Vineyards,
P Coturri Family Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain and Views Land Vineyard
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